Chinese designer Zhao Huizhou brought a powerful blend of heritage and fashion to Milan in March 2025. Her brand HUI debuted the Fall/Winter 2025 collection titled Aurora, a creative journey deeply inspired by Miao embroidery. Zhao’s work lit up the runway during Milan Fashion Week, merging ancient tradition with modern sophistication.
This latest collection draws from the rich artistic legacy of the Miao ethnic group. The Miao people, mostly from Guizhou province in Southwest China, have developed an intricate embroidery style over generations. Their craftsmanship is recognized as a national intangible cultural heritage in China. Zhao looked to this deeply meaningful art for both visual inspiration and cultural storytelling.
Miao embroidery uses vibrant colors, symbolic patterns, and carefully layered textures. These designs often depict mythical creatures, nature, and the community’s legends. For the Miao people, embroidery is not just decoration; it is storytelling through thread. Zhao embraces this idea by using traditional patterns to reflect ancient beliefs about cosmology, identity, and life.
According to Zhao, the collection taps into the human fascination with sunlight before the development of scientific explanations. People once imagined divine forces controlling the sun. For example, ancient Romans worshipped Apollo, the god of the sun. In Chinese mythology, Xihe drove a celestial carriage that carried the sun across the sky. These myths, though created far apart, share a common theme—reverence for light.
Zhao titled her collection Aurora to symbolize this universal awe. She explained that sunlight represents renewal, clarity, and hope. These themes appear in the silhouettes and designs featured in HUI’s collection. Flowing fabrics and shimmering embroidery hint at celestial motion and radiant light. Zhao believes that the sun’s symbolism crosses cultural lines and connects people worldwide.
Throughout her decade-long journey on the world’s top runways, Zhao has stayed rooted in Chinese culture. Whether in Paris, London, New York, or Milan, she often incorporates heritage into her designs. Her commitment to cultural storytelling sets her brand apart in global fashion. And in this collection, Miao embroidery becomes both the heart and soul of the design language.
The designer worked closely with skilled Miao artisans who have mastered embroidery techniques passed down through generations. These artists use thread and fabric to express ancient wisdom. Their pieces carry patterns that reflect beliefs about nature, seasons, spirits, and the origin of life. Zhao brought these symbols to international audiences by blending them with contemporary tailoring.
Zhao describes Miao embroidery as “the Miao epic worn on the body.” Each garment in the Aurora collection carries the weight of heritage and the joy of renewal. HUI’s collection doesn’t merely showcase beauty—it tells a story. The story travels from the mountain villages of Guizhou to the fashion capital of Milan.
Through this project, Zhao proves that fashion can become a bridge between the past and the present. As audiences applauded her Milan debut, Zhao reminded them that tradition never goes out of style. With Aurora, she lets Miao embroidery shine on the world stage once again, making culture not just visible—but unforgettable.
